A portrait of Ernest Hemingway
Ernest Hemingway, who called wine “one of the most civilized things in the world.” Via Wikimedia Commons.
By the This Day in Wine History Editorial Team✓ Researched, fact-checked & verifiedAugust 20267 min read

For as long as there have been writers, there has been wine on the desk beside them. It has been muse and comfort, subject and symbol — and, for more than a few, a slow undoing. The story of authors and wine is one of the richest threads in all of literature, running from a glass in a Paris café to a short story that treats a bottle like a living soul1.

Quick facts

  • Wine has been a companion to writers for centuries — muse and menace alike.
  • Ernest Hemingway called wine one of the most civilized things in the world.
  • Roald Dahl, a serious connoisseur, built a whole story around a wine bet.
  • Drink inspired — and destroyed — writers like F. Scott Fitzgerald.
Hemingway
The civilized glass
Dahl
A wine snob’s tale
Fitzgerald
Muse and undoing

Wine as muse

No writer is more bound up with wine than Ernest Hemingway. “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world,” he wrote, “and one of the most natural things that has been brought to the greatest perfection.” In A Moveable Feast, his memoir of 1920s Paris, wine flows through every café and every conversation, part of the very texture of the writing life he shared with Gertrude Stein and F. Scott Fitzgerald2.

Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world.— Ernest Hemingway2

The wine in the story

Sometimes wine is not just the writer’s companion but the story itself. The finest example is Roald Dahl’s dark, delicious tale “Taste,” from his 1953 collection Someone Like You. At a London dinner, a wine snob named Richard Pratt wagers on his ability to name a fine claret blind, refusing even to smoke for fear of dulling his palate and speaking of the wine as though it were a living being3. It is no accident Dahl wrote it so well: he was a genuine connoisseur with a serious cellar of his own4.

Muse and menace

Ernest Hemingway in Paris in 1927
For the Lost Generation in Paris, wine and the writing life were inseparable. Via Wikimedia Commons.

But the bottle has a darker chapter. For many great writers, drink slid from inspiration into ruin. F. Scott Fitzgerald, who chronicled the champagne glitter of the Jazz Age, was consumed by alcohol; he wrote his own epitaph for it: “First you take a drink, then the drink takes a drink, then the drink takes you”2. Hemingway’s own long decline was steeped in it too. Wine and spirits could open the door to creation and, just as easily, close it forever.

From the page to the cellar

The love affair continues in gentler forms. Some novelists became wine authorities in their own right — Jay McInerney, chronicler of 1980s New York, turned into one of America’s most-read wine columnists — and food-and-wine writers like M.F.K. Fisher made the tasting note a literary art5. From Omar Khayyám’s ancient verses to today’s wine columns, the glass and the pen have never been far apart.

Frequently asked questions

Which famous authors loved wine?

Many, but Ernest Hemingway is the most closely associated with it, calling wine one of the most civilized things in the world. Roald Dahl was a serious connoisseur, and writers from Fitzgerald to Kingsley Amis were famous drinkers.

What is Roald Dahl’s story “Taste”?

A 1953 short story in which a wine snob bets he can identify a fine claret blind at a dinner party. Dahl, himself a wine lover with a notable cellar, treats the wine almost as a living character.

What did Hemingway say about wine?

“Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world,” he wrote in Death in the Afternoon, and he wove wine through his Paris memoir A Moveable Feast.

How did alcohol affect famous writers?

For some it was a muse; for others a destroyer. F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway both struggled with drink, and Fitzgerald famously described how “the drink takes you.”

Did any novelists become wine writers?

Yes. The novelist Jay McInerney became a celebrated wine columnist, and food-and-wine writers such as M.F.K. Fisher turned writing about wine into a literary form of its own.

More from this day in wine history

See everything else that happened on July 21 — who was born, what was bottled, and which laws were signed.

Explore July 21 →

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References

  1. The Irish Times — Booze as Muse: Writers and Alcohol, from Hemingway to Highsmith.
  2. The Daily Beast — Drinking While Writing: Ernest Hemingway & F. Scott Fitzgerald.
  3. Roald Dahl Fans — “Taste” (short story).
  4. Wine & Words — Roald Dahl (1916–1990).
  5. Victoria Daskal — Wine & Literature: Where Culture, Stories, and Vino Unite.

Recommended reading

Vintage: The Story of Wine

Vintage: The Story of Wine

Hugh Johnson
From one of wine’s greatest writers — proof that wine and fine prose belong together.
A Short History of Wine

A Short History of Wine

Rod Phillips
Rich on wine’s place in culture, letters and the imagination.

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